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Gran Turismo 5 Car Setup Guide

Gran Turismo 5 Car Setup Guide

Due to my background previously as an automotive technician, I never had a problem understanding the various components of chassis tuning and the effect that they have on the car. However, I realize that not everybody has the same knowledge base to work from. Hence, setting up a cars’ suspension, transmission, down force and differential could be a difficult and frustrating task.

So to add more great content to this site I went out and searched for a comprehensive setup guide for the cars in Gran Turismo 5. Instead of reading like a book, it’s in a chart format which I think brings justice to understanding this topic! I hope you find this guide useful and can use it to reduce your lap times. I’ve read through it and it explains the cause and effect of just about everything there is in relation to car setup however if you have any questions that it does not cover, feel free to ask in the comments section below and I will give you an answer!

Gran Turismo 5 Car Setup Guide

10 Comments to Gran Turismo 5 Car Setup Guide

  1. Wardez

    This is a great source you’ve got. Just a little bit confusing at first but it makes sense if you take time to understand it.

    Just one important question for me:

    Have you heard or realized that it seems that some of the tuning settings seem to effect the cars oppositely?

    Like ride height, for example. In the chart you posted it states that a ride height set up where the front is higher than the front you can expect to run into major understeer. That’s definitely true in reality but if you try it in GT5 you might be frustrated in realizing that the car doesn’t act accordingly.

    It’s actually best to set your ride height in reverse orientation. The top guys on the seasonal leader boards have found the trick and are definitely using it to their advantage.
    They’re running the fronts super high and just dragging along their rear – those set ups are providing for world record laps.

    Try running a higher front than rear ride height on a car you feel understeers naturally. You should notice the car’s new found ability to fishtail. It’s menacing.

    These true to life guides are definitely interesting and you can learn lots. But until we figure out just what all the quirks are in relation to how settings affect the cars in GT5 compared to real life we won’t be able to totally apply what we learn.

    So we should concentrate on figuring out exactly what’s been reversed. Right now it’s pretty much confirmed that the ride height settings are reversed so would you think that the same would follow for damper settings, camber and such?

    They’re not even clear on whether setting higher numbers in the spring rates make it stiffer or softer. I have a Miata that I run a higher number spring rate in the front than in the back. This gives me good handling with the slight touch of oversteer I want as opposed to what it should be like in the real world – and this chart.

    • Charlie de Bruin

      worst advise ever

    • Cyclone Jack


      In response to the comment you made about the ambiguity of the spring rates and your setup for your Miata, maybe I can explain spring rates a little more simply.

      It makes perfect sense that you run stiffer springs in your Miata than you do in the rear. Here’s why.

      When you look at the weight distribution of the Miata or almost any FR type car, you’ll notice that they are usually nose heavy. Some are close to 50-50, but most FRs are around 60F – 40R or so.

      Say you have a 1200 kg car and you want even pressure on all four tires. With a 60F-40R car, your front springs would need to be 150% stiffer than the rears. Of course RR cars are the exact opposite or tail heavy. They would need stiffer rear springs than fronts. Good MR sports cars are pretty close to 50-50 so begin with springs that are pretty close F and R, with maybe a tad stiffer in front to reduce nose dive under hard braking.

      One thing that isn’t really explained well in the GT5 manual is ride height. It would make more sense to name it “Suspension Travel” instead. That way, the job the springs do is a lot easier to understand.

      Say a bone stock car has 200 lb/in front springs and the travel is about 8 inches. That means that it takes 1600 lbs to completely smash the spring (street car mushy feelin ride). You want to have a much tighter feeling ride that is quick to react to your steering inputs. Reduce the travel to 2 inches. Your car will still have to absorb the same amount of bumps in the road, but now it will need a spring four times stiffer (800 lb/in) to do it. A restult of this would be that your ride height is 6 inches lower than it was (BONUS).

      This knowledge and a good set of sway bars and shocks are the main reason that makes race cars handle so much snappier than street cars do.

      DISCLAIMER: I’m no genius or real life race car engineer, but I do have actual race car engineering experience in late model stocks and I just want to help people understand some of the more mysteryous aspects of race cars when I think I can.

      Good luck and don’t be afraid to take advice, but do yourself a huge favor……experiment a lot and keep good notes.

      -Cyclone Jack

  2. Meyer

    Have you setup a Toyota 7 Race Car for Cote d’azur?

    • JT

      Unfortunately I have not been able to do that yet. If I do, I will post it here!

    • Steve

      Put some ballast over the front end and reduce the power to about 90%.

      Makes the car more driveable in A spec and will allow the B spec driver to win provided you can keep him ‘cool’ enough. Even stops him from hitting the left wall in the chicane…

  3. pigboy with formula gt.oversteers when lift off a little,any actual set ups to try??

  4. monkie

    Wow, this is of great help, thx a bunch

  5. Beantownboy

    I was wondering if anyone can help me with my suspension setup for Daytona Superspeedway? I’ve been working on two cars, my TVR Ceberra Speed 12 and my Ferrari Enzo. When I race online I keep getting smoked by people driving the same exact car I am. I;m not asking for much, just the basic adjustments. Any help from anybody would be greatly appreciated.

  6. David Young

    Hi, first thanks for all the info on your site! the main issue i am having is transferring real car data into GT5, the problem comes from the rather ambiguous numbers/units GT5 uses for dampers in extension and compression also anti roll bars. It uses numbers like Ext. “Front 4 Rear 5″ “Comp. Front 4 Rear 5″ “Anti roll Front 6 Rear 6″

    E.g. here is the data from Bilstein for their Sport dampers/shocks in both N (Newtons) and lbf pounds-force respectively and are measured at a speed of 52cm/second

    front: N 2150 /1110 lbf 483 / 250 rear: N 2351 / 664 lbf 529 / 149

    Anti roll bars are front 22mm rear 22mm

    how do i equate these numbers with the single digits in GT5?

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